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When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small shop earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary triumph.